How I Made a Pocket-Sized Watercolor Sketchbook

I've been meaning to practice painting with watercolor for a while now, and I wanted a small sketchbook to take with me on the go. Something compact enough to fit in my bag, alongside my mini watercolor tin and my water brushes. Instead of buying one, I decided to bind my own to customize the size, paper type, and design to fit my needs.

This post details the process of how I made a pocket-sized watercolor sketchbook, from making custom bookcloth to sewing the pages and assembling the final book. I used a Coptic stitch binding, which allows the book to lay completely flat—perfect for painting. If you've ever wanted to try bookbinding, this is a great project to start with!

Materials Used

For the Cover

• 100% cotton tricoline fabric

• Heat-activated adhesive paper (like HeatnBond)

• Tracing paper (Canson 90gsm)

• Paperboard (thickness: ~1.5mm, also called Holler paper in Brazil)

• Kraft paper (not too thick, to ensure spine flexibility)

• X-Acto knife

• Metal ruler

• Pencil and eraser

  
  

For the Inside Pages

• Baohong Hot Pressed Watercolor Paper (300gsm) (cut to size)

• Endpapers (Custom design printed at home)

For Sewing and Assembly

• Waxed linen thread

• Curved needle

• Awl (or a thick sewing needle)

• Bone folder

• Bookbinding cradle (Optional but helpful for punching holes)

• Muslin fabric (for reinforcing the spine)

• PVA glue (pH neutral)

• Glue brush

• Heavy books or clamps (for pressing the book while drying)

  
  

Step 1: Making the Signatures

A signature is a group of folded pages that are bound together to form a section of a book. Since watercolor paper is thick, I only used two sheets per signature to avoid excessive bulk in the spine.

Process:

1. Cut each sheet to size → I cut mine to 11 cm x 19 cm (4.3” x 7.5”) using a small guillotine. If cutting by hand, use a sharp utility knife and a metal ruler, making multiple light passes instead of a single deep cut.

2. Check paper grain direction → Folding along the grain will help prevent cracking.

3. Stack them into signatures → Fold each sheet in half with a bone folder and place them in pairs.

4. Mark and punch holes → Use a bookbinding cradle (or mark with a ruler and pencil) and punch holes with an awl 2 cm (0.79”) apart along the spine.

5. Press under weight → Place the folded pages under a heavy stack of books to settle before sewing.

   
   

Step 2: Sewing the Textblock (Coptic Stitch Binding)

The Coptic stitch is a strong yet flexible binding method that allows the book to lay completely flat when opened.

Process:

1. Cut a length of waxed thread → About 4 times the book’s spine height.

2. Thread a curved needle with waxed linen thread.

3. Start with the first signature:

   • Enter the first hole from the inside and pull the thread out.

   • Move to the next hole and repeat until you exit the last hole.

4. Add the next signature:

   • Enter its first hole from the outside.

   • Loop under the stitch of the previous signature before pulling tight.

5. Continue sewing in this manner, always looping under the previous stitches, until all signatures are attached.

6. Secure the last hole with a knot and trim excess thread.

Step 3: Reinforcing the Spine with Muslin Fabric

Adding muslin fabric strengthens the spine while keeping it flexible.

Process:

1. Cut a strip of muslin fabric slightly wider than the spine but shorter than the book height.

2. Apply a thin layer of PVA glue along the spine with a foam brush.

3. Attach the muslin, pressing gently to ensure adhesion.

4. Let dry completely before proceeding.

📌 Tip: If you don’t have muslin, a thin cotton scrap can work as a substitute.

Step 4: Adding a Satin Ribbon Bookmark

1. Cut a piece of satin ribbon slightly longer than the book height.

2. Attach one end to the spine with a small dab of PVA glue.

3. Let it dry before moving to the next step.

   
   

Step 5: Making a Decorative Headband

A headband reinforces the spine and adds a decorative touch.

Process:

1. Cut a small strip of fabric and a piece of cotton twine.

2. Glue the twine along the fabric edge, rolling it tightly.

3. Once dry, cut to the book width and glue it to the top and bottom of the spine.

📌 Tip: If you prefer, pre-made headbands can be purchased online.

Step 6: Preparing and Attaching the Endpapers

1. Trim the endpapers to the same size as a watercolor sheet (11 cm x 19 cm).

2. Attach the back edge of the endpapers to the first and last pages for a smoother finish.

3. Apply a thin layer of PVA glue and press gently with a bone folder.

📌 Tip: Print endpapers on high-quality, off-white paper for a professional look.

Step 7: Making Bookcloth

Fabric must be backed before gluing to prevent glue seepage.

Process:

1. Cut fabric slightly larger than needed (e.g., 25 cm x 19 cm).

2. Apply iron-on adhesive to the fabric back.

3. Remove backing and attach tracing paper.

4. Iron again to fuse layers together.

5. Let cool, then trim to exact size.

📌 Tip: Use Fray Check or a thin layer of PVA glue to seal edges.

Step 8: Cutting and Assembling the Cover

1. Cut two pieces of paperboard (9.5 cm x 11.2 cm).

2. Cut a kraft paper spine (11.2 cm x 2 cm).

3. Attach them to the bookcloth, leaving small gaps for flexibility.

4. Fold in edges and glue neatly.

5. Press under weight until dry.

📌 Tip: Leave about 3mm (⅛ inch) between spine and cover boards.

Step 9: Attaching the Cover

1. Apply glue to the endpapers and align the text block inside the cover.

2. Press the book closed to ensure proper adhesion.

3. Let it dry under weight for at least 24 hours.

📌 Tip: Place wax paper between pages to prevent unwanted glue seepage.

Final Thoughts

And that’s it! Your handmade pocket watercolor sketchbook is ready to use. Would I do anything differently next time? Maybe experiment with other cover materials or add an elastic closure. Let me know if you try this project—I’d love to see your results! 😊

For a video of the entire process, watch below: